A Family Trip to West Sumatra

Afternoon fog in Puncak Lawang

2 days after I arrived in Jakarta, eleven of us -including my parents, all sisters, one brother in-law, three nephews and one niece- headed to West Sumatra. The plan was to visit Padang, Bukittinggi and the towns where my parents were born and grew up. The trip went great, my parents really enjoyed being back in their home towns with all their children and some of their grandchildren. But we had a bit of scare. The entire family narrowly missed (by just a few hours) getting caught in the earthquake in Padang.  Hotel Ambacang where we were supposed to stay was collapsed. Sadly, a number of people died there. 

September 30: Jakarta to Padang via Pekanbaru on Asia Air. Arrived in Pekanbaru at 8:00 a.m. only to find our rental cars were nowhere to be seen. While waiting for the cars (and the drivers) to arrive, we had breakfast at the airport restaurant.  90 minutes later left Pekanbaru heading to Bukittinggi to meet our twins cousins Y & Y who would then take us to Padang. Arrived in Bukittinggi around 4:30 p.m., 2 hours behind schedule.  

Our parents - Maninjau Lake at the background

We were just about to leave the city about 45 minutes later, when we felt a strong earthquake. After the earthquake, we continued our drive to Padang, but had to turn back to Bukittinggi an hour later after finding out that all access to Padang were closed by landslides from the earthquake. After unsuccessful attempts to contact Hotel Ambacang in Padang where we had our rooms booked for the night, we gave up and checked onto The Hills in Buittinggi. Later that night we learned that Padang was heavily damaged and Hotel Ambacang was collapsed where many guests were trapped inside. We were speechless and couldn't stop counting our blessings. Had the car rentals arrived on time at the airport to pick us up, we would have been in our rooms in Hotel Ambacang getting together with all our relatives who live in Padang when the earthquake hit. 

Songket making - Rumah Tenun Pusako

October 1:  Had breakfast at the hotel and stayed put until we got a confirmation that all our relatives in Padang were okay. By noon families in Padang decided that there was no way for us to visit Padang. Instead my mom's siblings would meet us all in Bukittinggi as soon as the access is available. We visited Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Gorge) and had lunch at Gulai Itiak Lado Mudo (young duck cooked in green pepper). After lunch we headed to Dad's hometown, Lawang to visit Puncak Lawang and his family house "Rumah Batu".  Puncak Lawang which is located about 1200 meters above sea level is the best spot to view Maninjau Lake. 

Traditional house in Lawang

On the way back to Bukittinggi, stopped by Bika Si Mariana for a sweet treat. Bika is a speciality from West Sumatra made of rice flour, grated coconut and palm sugar then baked in direct flames inside belanga (a type of kettle with a wide mouth but no lid). Dinner was Minangkabau cuisine again at RM Sederhana. 

Our dinner at Simpang Raya

October 2:  Walked around Jam Gadang right after sunrise while the rest of the gang was still in bed. Had breakfast at the hotel then waited for news from our families in Padang. By 2:00 p.m. my uncle In informed us that they just left Padang after waiting for 7 hours to get gas. Since our parents were too tired to go out and all the boys seemed to be interested more in playing with their notebooks, my sisters and I decided to go to Pandai Sikek, a small village not too far from Bukittiggi that is known for its fine quality songket.  Songkets are ceremonial wear from Sumatra. In West Sumatra, they are woven in silk and intricately patterned with gold and/or silver threads. We visited Rumah Tenun Pusako and was thrilled to meet nenek (one of the main players in Pandai Sikek tradionatlonal weavings) and her daughter as well as watch how a songket is made. Their songket collections are just fabulous. Each of us left Rumah Tenun Pusako with at least a piece of Songket. I decided to get one piece that has old Minangkabau pattern and color. 


October 3: Tired of having hotel food for breakfast, around 6:00 a.m., I walked to Los Ambuang that is not too far from the hotel to get Katupek Picak Tek Apuak for a take-out. After breakfast, hang out in the hotel, then went to mom's hometown, Simabur in Batusangkar. Since we arrived in Bukittinggi, our eyes were spoiled by the beauty of the sceneries of the countryside - a common scene that we enjoyed everywhere in West Sumatra would be either abundant rice fields or lush green of spectacular valley and mountains at the background. The ride from Bukittinggi to Simabur was no different.

Rice paddies in Koto Gadang

Lunch was a home-made traditional spread of Minangkabau cuisine at my mom's sister. We all agreed that lunch was the most delicious meal we've had during our trip. After lunch we visited our grandparents' graveyards, then drove to Batusangkar to re-visit Istana Pagaruyung (Pagaruyung Palace) -  my first visit to this palace was in the 70s. Unfortunately, the palace was still being re-built after the fire that totally vanished the building in 2007.  Dinner was Martabak Kubang (savory meat pancake Kubang stye) at Restoran Kubang Hayda. Kubang is a small village, 140 km from Payakumbuh where the maker of this dish is from. 

October 4: After breakfast at the hotel again, we went back to Rumah Tenun Pusako in Pandai Sikek before visiting Kota Gadang that is known for its fine silver crafts. Lunch was again masakan Minang but this time at Rumah Makan & Restoran Family. Hang out in the city, then had a delicious - or not so delicious if you don't like durian - Martabak Durian (a pancake stuffed with durian) for snack. Went out to get some Keripik Balado Sarina (spicy cassava chips) from Padang. I didn't get the famous Kripik Balado Christine Hakim per my aunt's recommendation who lives in Padang. It was a good choice. After having Sate Padang from a restoran that my uncle frequented to, we hang out and chatted in the hotel rooms until midnight when it's time for us to leave for Pekanbaru to catch our flights to Jakarta the next morning. 

Martabak Kubang - Yum yum

October 5: Checked out from the hotel at midnight then left Bukittinggi shortly after.  The drive to Pekanbaru was easy - but not for our cousins Y & Y who had to drive on the road with no sufficient street lights -. The drive was a lot more pleasant than the one we took from Pekanbaru with the rental cars. Arrived in Pekanbaru before dawn, went to our cousin's house to freshen up and had breakfast then on to the airport. By the time we arrived in Jakarta every one was starving so we decided to have lunch at Bakmi GM inside the airport before heading home.

10 Days in Jordan

Hubby and and I went to Jordan last month. It was a fabulous cultural experience. We learned that the people of Jordan (at least those we encountered along the way) are very hospitable and generous with their time. Here is the day-by-day recap of the trip with links to places we stayed, ate and visited.

Getting to Jordan on June 11. United Airlines Los Angeles to Washington Dulles then to London. British Midland (BMI) London to Amman, Jordan with 6 hour layover in Heathrow -> were able to freshen up, rest and have decent food - thanks to the new BMI Lounge.

Obeid's Family

Arrive in Amman on the same day in the evening. Checked into Intercontinental Amman, between the 2nd and 3rd Circles. Very close to the hotel, right by the 2nd Circle, spotted a shoebox-sized food stall with a lot of people lining up in front of it. It turned out to be the Reem Cafetaria, a popular shwarma joint in Amman. It was already late and we were very tired after an almost 32 hour journey so we went straight to bed. 

Waking up in Amman, had breakfast in the hotel then off we went to Petra. On the way to Petra, we had local cuisine for lunch at a restaurant in the middle of desert highway; generous platter of hummus, baba ghanoush, mutabbel (spicier version of baba ghanoush) plus grilled chicken with yellow rice. That was the tastiest yellow rice we had in Jordan. Later, after we checked into the Moevenpick Petra, we headed to Petra Visitor Center which is literally about a 2 minute walk from the hotel. The ancient city of Petra is simply awesome and breathtaking. Spectacular view of the Treasury (Al Khazna) in the afternoon welcomed us at the end of the Siq. From there we continued our way to the Monastery (Al Deir) which involved a steep hike of about 800 steps. Right before sunset we slowly went back to the Treasury, enjoyed the beauty of the treasury after sunset before heading back to hotel. Too tired to explore restaurants outside hotel, we dined inthe hotel's restaurant Al-Saraya - which was nothing to rave about.

The Monastery (Al Deir)

Petra & Wadi Rum ~ After breakfast in the hotel, we went back to Petra to enjoy the Treasury in the morning then climbed up the steep steps behind the Royal tombs to view the Treasury from the cliffs above. Chatted with Raina, a smart Bedouin girl who helped her mom sell stuff inside Petra. Had a very delicious lunch of Bedouin specialities at Red Cave Restaurant then cooled down with Moevenpick ice cream at the hotel's indoor courtyard while waiting for our ride to Wadi Rum. Drove along King's Hwy to Wadi Rum and arrived at Obeid's Bedouin camp in the protected area at Wadi Rum about 90 minutes later. We spent the whole afternoon on the ledge of one of the rocks enjoying the sweet Bedouin tea and chatting away with Obeid's family while watching life and camels go by until sunset. It was one of the best experiences of my life. Dinner was great; chicken prepared by Obeid's son Salim -that had been cooked in the Bedouin way under the sand- yellow rice, vegetables, potatoes and fresh pita bread. Hubby commented that was the best pita bread he ever tried. We opted not to use our camp at night and slept under the stars in the middle of the Wadi Rum desert. 

Wadi Rum ~ Waking up in the dessert! Had breakfast in Obeid's camp; pita bread, hummus, za'atar - I loved za'atar so much that had it for breakfast almost every morning after that day. Took a jeep ride to experience the wonders of the Wadi Rum desert before heading back to Amman. Had late lunch at the hotel then hung around the rest of afternoon. Obeid took us for a taste of mansaf, the national dish of Jordan, for dinner at Al-Quds Restaurant. Mansaf is a Bedouin dish of lamb cooked in yogurt and served on a bed of rice. Delicious!

Mansaf

Back in Amman. Had breakfast at the hotel's restaurant - glad to find za'atar was available :-).   Felt really ill so decided to stay in hotel room the whole day. Lunch and dinner from Room Service.

Amman ~ Felt a little bit better. Breakfast and lunch in the hotel, then decided to try shwarma from Reem Cafeteria for snack in the afternoon. Getting bored with hotel food, we ordered some take out from Romero Restaurant located a stone's throw from the hotel. Food was superb and I experienced a real Jordanian hospitality when finding it impossible to cross the street to pick up the food; a passing taxi driver stopped his car, got off and walked me across the street, then back to his taxi and drove away.

Exploring Amman. Right after breakfast took a taxi to King Abdullah Mosque, the blue-domed mosque and spent most of the morning inside the mosque. Had lunch in the hotel at its Mexican Cinco de Mayo Restaurant. Then grabbed a taxi to visit Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a) and to enjoy a spectacular view of the entire city. Had dinner at the hotel's Lebanese Restaurant, Bourj Al Hamam instead of Fakhr El-Din as originally planned. The food was excellent; Hindbeh (sauteed dandelion leaves), Dolma, Yalanji (similar to Dolma but with vine leaves), Fatayer (Spinach turnovers), Kofta Kebab to name a few. Summer evening was so beautiful in Amman so seating outside on the restaurant terrace was a great choice.

Dead Sea. With a rented a car, we went to the Dead Sea via Madaba and Mt. Nebo. Got lost in Madaba but a taxi driver with his family in the car noticed our confusion. He stopped his car and waved for us to follow him. A kilometer's worth of turns later, he pointed us to the right road and we were back on track. Made a stop at the Dead Sea Panorama Complex that has a splendid view of the Dead Sea for lunch and a quick visit to a Dead Sea Museum. Great architecture. Lunch again was delicious; dolma, fatayer; shanklish (local cheese), lamb chops, chicken wings, hummus, walnut dip and pita bread. Checked into Jordan Valley Marriott Resort, floated on the sea after sunset -it was unbearably hot during the day- then had dinner at Ill Terrazzo. Walked around the hotel watching the lights from the towns on the West Bank (Israel) across the sea before hitting the hay.

Dead Sea and Jerash. Went back to the sea before sunrise to enjoy it before the crowds got in. After breakfast got pampered with a mud spa before heading north up to Ajlun Castle, the highest spot in Northern Jordan that has a sweeping view of the Jordan Valley. From there went onto Jerash, the biggest Roman Ruins outside Rome then returned to Amman. Checked in back to the Intercontinental Hotel then had dinner at Bourj Al Hamam again to taste the delicious Lebanese feast for the last time.

11 days later, long flight home. Obeid took us to the airport in the morning. BMI Amman to London, United Airlines London to San Francisco, United Airlines San Francisco to home by evening just enough time to get a quick shower and go to bed. Had a grilled fillet mignon dinner on the plane which was very tasty.

Floating on the Dead Sea

More pictures of Bedouin Specialities - very yummy ...

And amazing sites

Road Trip to Monterey and Environs

Kurang dari 36 jam berada di rumah setelah kembali dari perjalanan panjang di Asia, kami berdua sudah dalam perjalanan ke Monterey (lagi dan lagi :-). Selain Fifi's Bistro Cafe dan Thai Krua Cafe, tempat makan yang kami kunjungi adalah restoran atau cafe yang sudah kami kenal atau sudah menjadi langganan.  We're not feeling so adventurous on this trip. 

Rabu, November 19:  Setelah sarapan langsung berangkat, berhenti sebentar di Starbucks Montecito untuk secangkir decaffeinated latte, dan di San Luis Obispo untuk makan siang di Buona Tavola.  Sebelum ke hotel mampir dulu di Patisserie Bechler di Pacific Grove untuk membeli kue pistachio, kue coklat dan beberapa potong cookies.  Patisserie Bechler ini sudah menjadi salah satu a must-stop bakery buat kami berdua jika berkunjung ke Monterey area.  Kue-kue nya enak banget dan sangat "European".  Akhirnya sebagian kue-kue dan cookies yang dibeli menjadi "dinner" kami malam itu. Karena masih jet lag; begitu sampai di hotel mata dan badan sudah tidak bisa diajak kompromi lagi; langsung memerintahkan untuk istirahat. 

Kamis, November 20:  Makan pagi keesokan harinya di tempat langganan First Awekening di Pacific Grove.  Setelah itu jalan-jalan di Carmel menikmati suasana kota di musim gugur yang kelihatan lebih sepi dibandingkan musim semi atau musim panas.  Jadinya terasa lebih puas menikmati sudut-sudut kota Carmel yang cantik. Saat perut mulai terasa lapar, mampir ke Bruno's Market & Deli untuk membeli sepotong sandwich tri-tip,  apel dan air putih kemasan yang dinikmati di salah satu taman di kota Carmel bergabung dengan beberapa penduduk yang juga berpiknik sambil menikmati hari yang cerah di bulan November.  Untuk makan malam karena masih terbayang-bayang lezatnya masakah Thai di Bangkok, kami putuskan untuk mencoba restoran Thai Krua Cafe. Pilihan yang mengecewakan karena semua makanan yang kami pesan malam itu rasanya standar. Kami tidak akan merekomendasikan restoran ini ke teman dan kenalan. 

Jumat, November 21: Dimulai dengan makan pagi ringan di East Village Coffee Lounge (EVCL) di Monterey; secangkir organic decaffeinated latte dan setangkup bagel panggang dengan cream cheese.  EVCL suasananya asik buat duduk-duduk, yang kerja ramah-ramah, rasa makanannya diatas rata-rata, dan fresh karena kebanyakan dibuat di dapur EVCL sendiri.  What I like the most about EVCL is that mereka menerapkan "green" konsep semaksimal mungkin dan menggunakan produk yang "biodegradable".  Kopinya kopi lokal dari hasil fair-trade.  Ada wi-fi gratis lagi.  Siangnya mencoba masakan Perancis di Fifi's Bistro Cafe, Pacific Grove. Suami pesan Sole Beurre Noisette dan saya pesan Steak Frites - grilled Angus skirt steak dengan merica hijau dan disajikan dengan potongan kentang goreng, dan french onion soup sebagai hidangan pelengkap sementara suami pesan sepiring salad segar. Secara mengejutkan rasa masakannya mendekati sempurna dengan porsi yang lumayan. Jadilnya rencana untuk menikmati dessert di Patisserie Bechler yang cuma selemparan batu dari Fifi's Bistro Cafe batal. Perut sudah tidak sanggup lagi untuk menampung sepotong kue kering sekalipun. Untuk makan malam kami mengajak sahabat kami yang tinggal di Bay Area untuk mencoba salah satu restoran favorit kami, Passion Fish di Pacific Grove.  Seperti telah kami duga, mereka berdua sangat menyukai semua hidangan yang dipesan malam itu.  

Sabtu, November 22:  Makan pagi dinikmati di the Tuck Box di Carmel setelah cukup lama absen makan di restoran ini.  Seperti biasa pesan  scones mereka yang rasanya masih boleh dipujikan bersanding dengan Jack Cheese & Avocado omelette, segelas jus jeruk segar dan secangkir kopi.  Sebelum kembali ke Monterey, jalan kaki menyusuri Carmel yang tampak lebih hidup dibandingkan hari biasa.  Makan siang di Pattiserie Bechler untuk menikmati kembali lezatnya "Turkey Sandwich" yang selalu bikin puas dan tidak terlalu berat di perut. Padahal turkey sandwich mereka sangat sederhana.  Hanya menggunakan irisan tomat, lettuce, bawang bombay dan Swiss cheese.  Sepertinya karena rotinya home-made (saya pilih croissant) dan menggunakan sayuran segar maka rasanya menjadi lain. Sebelum meninggalana restoran, tidak lupa membungkus beberapa potong kue kering dan sepotong kue pistachio kesukaan. Makan malam tentulah sushi di Tsurugi San Luis Obispo. 

13 Jam Menikmati Shanghai

Sebetulnya menginap di Shanghai selama 4 hari 3 malam tapi saya hanya menyempatkan untuk jalan-jalan selama beberapa jam pada hari kedua dan hari terakhir. Selain tujuan utama ke Shanghai adalah urusan dinas, juga dikarenakan sudah merasa tidak enak badan saat meninggalkan Jakarta. Daripada tambah sakit, saya memillih untuk tidak terlalu memaksakan diri. Beberapa lokasi yang mengandung nilai sejarah atau menggambarkan kehidupan penduduk setempat manjadi pilihan. Tempat-tempat belanja tentu saja dihindari.

Sabtu, 15 November, 13:00 Xintiandi and French Concession

Sangat menarik menyelusuri jalan-jalan di Xintiandi dan French Concession yang bebas mobil (dan tree-lined) menyaksikan pengunjung dan penduduk setempat berbaur. Di distrik ini banyak terdapat cafe dan restoran yang menyajikan masakan Eropa. Saya lebih merasa seperti berada di Eropa dibandingkan di Cina. Tujuan utama ke distrik ini adalah untuk mengunjungi musuem miniatur Shikumen. Museum ini merupakan re-kreasi dari rumah kalangan menegah keatas di Shanghai pada tahun 1920an. Rumah berlantai dua ini dipenuhi dengan buku-buku, mebel antik (tidak jelas asli atau replika) foto-foto dan mangkok teh dan placards yang berisi informasi tentang kehidupan keluarga yang tinggal di Shikumen saat itu. Sebuah ruang kecil yang umumnya disewakan kepada penulis berbakat yang menulis tentang kehidupan di Shikumen dimaksudkan sebagai pendapatan tambahan keluarga. Ruang tersebut sangat kecil tanpa jendela dan hanya cukup untuk ditempati sebuah kasur. Keluar dari museum, kami menyusuri jalan ke timur menyurusi danau buatan untuk melihat kehidupan penduduk Shanghai yang sebenarnya. Jalan-jalan lebih kecil dan dipenuhi oleh pejalan kaki, pengendara sepeda dan sepeda motor, bis umum dan mobil pribadi. Deretan ruko menempati kiri kanan jalan dengan jemuran pakaian menghiasi tingkat dua bangunan ruko tersebut. Pemandangan yang khas dan mudah ditemui di area pemukiman di setiap sudut kota.

19:00 Makan malam di South Beauty Restaurant

South Beauty Restaurant adalah chain restaurant dari Beijing yang menyediakan masakan Sichuan. Tapi di cabangnya di Pudong ini, menurut kolega yang orang Cina, separuh dari masakan yang disajikan adalah masakan Cantonese dan masakan modern Sichuan. Pengetahuan saya tentang masakan Cina yang sangat minim tidak bisa membedakan kedua masakan tersebut dan tentu saja tidak bisa memastikan apakah Restoran South Beauty ini menyajikan kedua masakan tersebut. Yang jelas semua masakan yang disajikan malam itu semuanya enak-enak dan menjadikan masakan Cina yang terlezat yang pernah saya rasakan. Inilah pertama kalinya saya bersantap ala Cina, menikmati nineteen-course meal. Ya, you read it right, we had 19-course dinner that night! Restorannya sendiri menempati lantai teratas Super Brand Mall di Pudong dengan pemandangan menghadap ke 'the Bund'. 

Senin, 17 November, 9:00: Yuyuan Garden

Konon Yuyuan Chinese Garden ini dibangun lebih dari 400 tahun lalu pada masa Dinasti Ming . Taman bergaya klasik ini kabarnya hasil renovasi dan restorasai beberapa kali. Memasuki taman Yuyuan serasa berada di taman-taman dalam film silat jaman dulu. Kolam ikannya dipenuhi ikan berwarna oranye yang montok-montok. Beberapa paviliun berwarna merah maroon dengan bentuk yang berbeda satu sama lain terlihat menarik dengan atap khas Cina. Bebatuan besar berwarna putih tampak seperti batu-batu raksasa yang disirami garam. Ada juga pohon-pohon besar dengan daunnya yang halus menjuntai ketanah, cakep dan jadi berasa di Cina. Pokoknya betah deh berlama-lama di taman ini.

Weekend in Bangkok

While in Jakarta, I popped up to Bangkok and met up with hubby who has been in the area for a little while. Here are some pictures and a summary of the trip. 

Friday/November 7: Jakarta to Bangkok on Thai Airways. Checked into the Conrad Hotel. Ate delicious dinner at Curries & Co by Baan Khanitha - behind the hotel. Walked around the hotel to get to know the neighborhood a little bit.

Saturday/November 8: After breakfast took a Sky Train to Central Pier (Sathorn Pier). From there hopped on Chao Phraya Express Boat to Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, the temple of the celebrated Emerald Budha. Snacked on chicken satay from the street vendor before meeting our friend C at the Giant Reclining Budha. The three of us then rode a tuk tuk to Khao San Road - the backpacker strip - for some lunch and cool drinks. Back to hotel for a quick shower before meeting C again for dinner. Grabbed a taxi from hotel to take us to ... Pier (I cannot recall the name of the pier right now), met up with C then boarded on a lovely old traditional wooded craft ferry of Supatra River House that took us directly to its restaurant across the Chao Phraya River. We sat on the best table at the restaurant that allowed us enjoy a wonderful night view of the Grand Palace throughout our meals. 

Sunday/November 9: Had breakfast at the hotel's restaurant, then took a taxi to Old Siam Plaza, a shopping center close to Pahurat (Little India) and Chinatown to look for Thai silk. What a pleasant surprise to find the atrium was filled with stallholders preparing all kind of Thai snacks and desserts; all looked delicious, colorful, interesting shapes with the names we couldn't pronounce. Tried several of them and all was delicious; what a great way to sample local food! I was very happy with my sticky rice w/ durian (without coconut milk) that brought back great memories. Growing up I always had this mix whenever durian was on season, even for breakfast! From there we took a taxi to Silom to scout out another Thai Silk store, walked to NaRaYa, then grabbed a taxi to Jim Thompson Thai House where we spent most of our afternoon. After touring the house and the museum, we had a late lunch at the Thompson Restaurant. Their pad thai was impressive and delightful. And I am now craving for their pad thai as I type this. Did some silk shopping at JT shop before heading back to our hotel. In the evening walked to Suan Lum night bazaar which was not too far from the hotel, but didn't stay there very long. Then got a good Thai massage near our hotel which was more relaxing then going to SLN. 

Monday/November 10: Went swimming in the morning, had breakfast in the hotel then relaxed in the lobby. Had lunch with P (my classmate when I was a student in England), her baby daughter and her mom in a restaurant inside the building adjacent to Conrad. In the afternoon I rode a sky train to Siam Paragon to get more silk from Jim Thompson before letting myself loose in the Gourmet Market at the Ground Floor of Siam Paragon. Bought juicy Rose Apple aka Jambu Air and some sticky rice with mango for afternoon snack. Had dinner at Baan Khanitha. 

Tuesday/November 11: Took a taxi to the airport then flew back to Jakarta on Thai Airways. Checked onto Intercontinental Jakarta then moved to Shangri-la the next day.