15 Days in Spain

Our trip to Andalusia, Spain was just incredible. It's such a treat to be able to see and learn exceptionally gorgeous Moorish architectures and historical sites in all cities we visited. We specially liked walking along the narrow streets and small alleys to find old houses, stores or buildings in typical Moorish architectures with their cute courtyard or windows in beautiful tiles work. And the food... their tapas as well as local specialities were just delicious. When we first planned our trip, we wanted to make sure that we had enough time to enjoy and get the feel for every city we would visit. We would want to stay in places that posses the local ambience and if possible in the Paradores. Thankfully, Belen from Totally Spain helped us find the hotels we wanted and managed to book us at two paradores in Malaga and Ronda. With only 16 days to spend, we decided to just do Andalusia, in the southern part of Spain. Here is the summary of the trip that was taken from September 22 through October 5.

Day 1: Getting to Spain

British Airways LA to London on September 22 then Iberia London to Seville with almost 5 hour layover in Heathrow. Arrived in Seville the next day.

Day 2: Arrive in Seville
Arrived in Seville, a city with more than two thousand years of history and legend early evening. Checked into  Casa Romana Hotel Boutique,  on a quiet street in Old Seville. The hotel was beautifully decorated, clean, and modern and is close to everything. Took a walk to check out the neighborhood then had tapas for dinner at a local restaurant.

Day 3: Seville
After breakfast at the hotel, walked along the Avenida de la Constitucion toward the old Jewish Quarter of Santa Cruz where all the three famous sites - Cathedral, La Giralda and the Royal Alcazar Palace are located. We decided to do the Alcazar (Admission 7,50€). This place was huge! A day would not be enough to explore the whole complex and to enjoy all intricate tilework, spectacular arches and caligraphs, beautiful ceilings and doors and the gardens. It is a big place after all. Had tapas for late lunch in a restaurant around Santa Cruz then headed to Macarena neighborhood to visit Casa de Pilatos (Admission 5,00€). After that walked leisurely toward our hotel via Plaza del Salvador. Dinner again was tapas at a local restaurant near our hotel.

Day 4: Seville
Spent the day in the Parque de Maria Luisa and its surroundings; Plaza de espana then Plaza de America. Late afternoon wandered through the intricate network of streets of Old Seville dedicated to pedestrian traffic only. It's nice to get lost in its narrow streets and discover nice corners while admiring beautiful tiles works, windows and doors of the buildings along the streets.  Stopped by at La Buenas Estreila Cafe & Bar for coffee con leche before heading back to our hotel. Had tapas again for dinner at Casa Paco in Plaza Hercules. 

Day 5: Seville and Jerez de la Frontera
Breakfast in the hotel, checked out then took a taxi to Seville station to pick up a rental car before heading to "World Cherry Capital" Jerez de la Frontera. In less than 90 minutes we already checked in at the Hotel Bellas Artes in the historic center of Jerez. Glad we booked a junior suite because their deluxe rooms were very very small. Our room had an unobstructed view of the Jerez Cathedral which is located right opposite the hotel. Drove around a little bit to check out this charming village then visited Bodegas Tio Pepe (Admission 13,50€).  From there headed to Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre (the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). Unfortunately they do a show only on Tuesdays and Thursdays so we only watched the training session and of course all those beautiful horses. Didn't have proper lunch as it already passed lunch time when we left the school so finding restaurants in the afternoon was quite challenging;   the city was asleep in the afternoon! Hang out at the terrace of the only bar opened in a very quite plaza while locals took a break from their routine. Had delicious tapas for dinner at El Gallo Azul in the heart of Jerez. Too tired to go to Santiago- gypsy quarter- to see Flamenco, we decided to just enjoy the evening in the city before walking down back to hotel. 

Day 6: Jerez de la Frontera and Ronda
After breakfast visited Alcazar de Jerez or Old Arab fortress with its Arab baths, mosque and gardens (Admission 2,50€) then headed to Ronda, about 54 miles from Jerez. Stopped by the picturesque Pueblos Blancos (white villages) of Acros de la Frontera and a charming village Grazalema, a pueblo blanquísimo (extraordinarily white town). Had a very delicious Andalusian cuisine for lunch at Cadiz El Chico, a restaurant in an antique building on the main square of Grazalema. After lunch drove around the village on a very narrow road in our rented car. 

Arrived in Ronda, the birthplace of modern bullfighting, about 30 minutes later. Checked into Parador de Ronda then went straight to Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda (The Royal School of Cavalry) and its Plaza de Toros or the Bullring, (Admission 5,00€). Spent the rest of the afternoon in this amazing place. Walked along the cliff-side walkway with stunning views of the gorge and the valley at sunset before having a wonderful Andalusian dinner at Restaurante Dona Peppe in Plaza de Socorro. Have a crave for their sheep cheese with flower honey while typing this.  


Day 7: Ronda and Malaga
Our room in the parador had spectacular views for miles across the valley and the distant mountains on one side and the awesome cliffs on the other side. So woke up early to enjoy all these views at sunrise. After delicious breakfast at the hotel's restaurant - also with stunning views of the gorge-  strolled around La Ciudad (the old city) with its Moorish palaces and streets through the Puente Nuevo (new bridge) before continuing the trip to Malaga. Made a stop at Marbella, Costa del Sol and walked around Los Naranjos Square (Plaza de Los Narajos), the main street surrounded by several classical Renaissance-style architecture. Lunch was la lubina a la sal (Seabass baked in salt) at a restaurant on a small street around the plaza, which was excellent. Cheked into Parador Gibralfaro in Malaga then walked to Castillo de Gibralfaro (Admission 1,50€) which was next to the parador. Spent the rest of the afternoon through sunset playing domino at the porch of the parador with coffee con leche and beautiful panorama of Port of Malaga. Dinner was seafood Paella and Malaga cuisine; ajo blanco or Malaga gazpacho which is cold garlic and breadcrumb soup made with almond and muscatel grapes-; and pescaito frito, a fried dish of whitebait, anchovies, baby squid, red mullet, sardine on a spit, anglerfish, tuna, hake and shellfish with a striking night view of Malaga at the parador's restaurant


Day 8: Malaga and Granada
After breakfast visited La Alcazaba, which was once a palace of the Nazarite Kings. From there walked around Malaga's streets and squares in the heart of  the town where Plaza de la Merced, Pablo Picasso's birthplace, is located. Took a bus back to the parador then left for Granada. Made a stop at Nerja for lunch at a restaurant near Balcon de Europa, a magnificent promenade along the edge of towering cliff. The sweeping view of the Mediterranean sea, the small coves and beaches from Balcon de Europa was incredibly breathtaking. Explored Nerja town center after lunch then headed to Granada. The water was crystal clear that you could see the coral underneath. Found a nice spot to pull over then made a quick swim in the Mediterranean Sea. Arrived in Granada in Sierra Nevada before sunset. Checked into Hesperia Granada then took a walk around the neighborhood before having delicious tapas for dinner at Casa Julio near Plaza Nueva.  


Day 9: Granada
After breakfast at a cafe in Plaza Nueva, leisurely walked along Carrera del Dorro toward El Albaicin, the old Moorish quarter of Granada. It was such a nice walk as we could see several interesting sites such as the Church of Santa Ana that has a mixture of Moorish and Christian styles, beautiful bridges, Arab baths (Banos Arabes), an interesting Renaissance doorway that leads to some intriguing carvings inside a temple, a 14th century Moorish house, museum, more churches (Church of San Juan de los Reyes, Church of San Pedro) etc. Grabbed some lunch from one of the restaurants in Plaza Larga in the heart of the Albaicin then went straight to Mirador de San Nicolas to enjoy panoramic view of the Sierra Nevada, the Alhambra and Granada. Slowly walked down back toward the town center through different route to see more delightful city's squares, churches and other Moorish remains. Spent the afternoon in the city until dinner. Dinner at Restaurant Gallio in Plaza Bib-Rambla square. 


Day 10: Granada
Breakfast was delicious churros and cafe con leche in one of Granada's breakfast bars around Plaza Bib-Rambla. Had tickets to Alhambra and Generalfie with the entrance to Nasrid Palaces between 4:30 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. (Admission 10,00€, purchased in August) so spent the morning exploring side streets between Plaza de Isabel la Catolica to Plaza de Carmen to do a little shopping. Grabbed some pastries from Pasteleria Lopez-Mezquita -they were very good- before heading to Alhambra. The rest of the day was spent in the spectacular Alhambra. Couldn't find the words to describe the beauty and the magnificent of this palace. It's just amazingly spectacular! Had yummy good seafood for dinner at Restaurante Cunini in Plaza de Pescaderia.


Day 11: Granada and Cordoba
Went back to have breakfast in another breakfast bar around Plaza Bib-Rambla, spent the rest of morning in Helderia Cafe in Plaza Bib-Rambla square to write postcards and have churros then onto Pasteleria Lopez-Mezquita for light lunch and their delicious pastries. Left for Cordoba in the afternoon.  


Day 12: Cordoba